Ceramic Floor Tiling 1 - Introduction
This ebook will show you the step by step procedure for installing a ceramic tile floor.
Although many of the general rules of installing tile apply to most any tile job, this technique applys to wooden and Flat cement floors any where in your house, and others that apply to countertops and walls.
Safety
1. Safety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are in use and when chiseling, sanding, scraping or hammering overhead. This is very important for anyone wearing contact lenses.
2. Wear ear protectors when using noisy power tools. Some tools operate at noise levels that damage hearing.
3. Be careful of loose hair and clothing so that it does not get caught in tools; roll your sleeves up and remove jewelry.
4. The proper respirator or face mask should be worn when sanding, sawing or using substances with toxic fumes.
5. Keep blades sharp. A dull blade requires excessive force and can slip which causes accidents.
6. Always use the right tool for the job. Repair or discard tools with cracks in the wooden handles or chips in the metal parts.
7. Don't drill, shape or saw anything that isn't firmly secured.
8. Oily rags are spontaneously combustible, so take care when you store and discard them.
9. Don't abuse your tools.
10. Keep a First Aid Kit on hand.
11. Do not work with tools when you are tired. That's when most accidents occur.
12. Read the owner's manual for all tools and understand their proper usage.
13. Keep tools out of the reach of small children.
14. Unplug all power tools when changing settings or parts.
Most Common Mistakes:
1. Not using the proper backing as a base for the tile or not sealing the joints of the backing or underlayment well.
2. Not laying out the tile correctly, thereby ending up with very thin tiles on the ends of the rows.
3. Poor alignment of tiles so the job looks sloppy and out of line.
4. Not using water-proof mastic when applying tile in moisture conditions.
5. Poor adhesion of tiles to the mastic so the tiles can move or pull out of place.
6. Not applying silicone caulk around the edges where there is a lot of exposure to water like around the tub or shower where the floor meets the edges.
7. Tiling around the toilet not under it.
8. Not allowing mastic to dry long enough before applying the grout.
9. Not wiping the grout off before it sets up, making it a much tougher job of scraping the grout off the face of the tile.
10. Not sealing the grout with a silicone sealer a few days after the grout has had time to cure.
11. Not laying tile over a smooth, stout floor.
Materials:
When you order your tile, make sure you have accurate measurements of the space. A plan drawn out on graph paper can be very helpful. Order 5 - 8 percent more tile than you need to allow for cuts and damage. Often the color of glazing will vary from shipment to shipment so if you have to go back later to get more tile you may find that the tile does not match exactly.
You'll also need to select the grout you'll need. Grout comes in different colors. If you decide to use a colored grout, be sure that it won't stain the particular tile you've selected. A practical consideration for kitchens might be that a dark grout does not show dirt as easily as a white grout.
Ceramic Floor Tiling 2 - Checklist
Tools:
• Tape Measure
• Tile Cutter
• Tile Nippers
• Glass Cutter
• Combination Square
• Framing Square
• Notched Trowel
• Level
• Hammer
• Rubber Mallet
• Floor Scraper
• Caulking Gun and Caulk
• Chalk Line
• Screwdriver or Can Opener
• Putty Knife
• Utility Knife
Materials:
• Tile
• Underlayment or Backer Board
• Grout
• Proper Nails for Underlayment
• Mastic
• Spacers, if necessary
• Grout Sealer
• Grout Fortifier
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Ceramic Floor Tiling 3 - Surface Preparation
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1. Before you start, clear away anything that will get in the way or get wet like rugs, towels, glass bathroom shelves, and other accessories.
2. It's important to cover any drains that are in close proximity to the job with some tape so that debris won't fall down the drain and cause it to clog. For a sink, also line it with cardboard so as not to scratch it.
3. Remove the baseboards as well as door and window trims by using a pry bar. Be careful not to damage the walls as you do this.
4. Remove the faucet handles, escutcheons, shower heads, and spigots. Use a cloth between your wrench so as not to scratch these pieces.
5. Remove the toilet. Don't ever tile around a toilet while it's in place. First, turn off the supply valve to the toilet. Then flush the toilet to drain off the water in the basin. Next, pull the little white caps at the base of the toilet off and with a small wrench undo the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor. Get some help to gently lift the toilet off the wax drain ring and put it aside on old newspapers and rags to soak up any excess water drops.
As for any cabinetry in place, it's generally easier to tile the whole floor surface rather than having to cut and fit around it, but you may decide in your particular situation to work around the cabinetry.
6. When installing tile to the floor you will most likely be increasing the height of the floor where it will be necessary to cut the bottom of the door. To do this, first mark the bottom of the door by stacking two pieces of tile alongside of the door. This will assure you that the door will swing clear of your newly tiled floor.
Floor Underlayment
1. Proper backing for the tiling surface is very important. Backing for the tile floor may consist of exterior grade heel-proof plywood, lauan underlayment panel, mortar based backer board, or exterior plywood underlayment. It should be at least 11/4" thick over a minimum of 16" on center floor joists. Otherwise a "flex" can cause tile to pop out of place.
2. If you are installing a new underlayment, it's recommended that you staple polyethylene plastic on top of the subfloor before you install the underlayment to ensure protection from water penetrating down to the subfloor.
3. If applying a sheet of plywood underlayment, leave a slight gap between panels and about 1/4" along the edges to allow for slight expansion and contraction.
You can fill low areas with this quick drying patching compound using a wide application blade to create as flat a surface as possible.
4. Stagger the joints of the underlayment in a brick-joint fashion and be sure that underlayment seams do not fall directly over existing subfloor seams. With whatever underlayment you use, except the backer board, slightly countersink or "dimple" all the nails.
Whatever you do, don't ever use particle board, flake board, or masonite as underlayment for ceramic tile and be sure that your surface is dry and clean.
5. If you use a mortar based backer-board, seal the joints and seams with the proper joint compound and then seal with a moisture resistant bonderizer.
6. You can lay tile over concrete, just make sure to give it a minimum of 28 days to cure. Vinyl tile can also be applied directly over existing tile or vinyl unless the vinyl is sponged backed. If the vinyl is glossed, you'll need to de-gloss it to get a proper bond.
7. Before you start, when you are checking your materials, check the doorways to determine the tiles you'll need to finish the exposed edges properly. For example, if your finished floor level is going to be higher than the adjoining room or hallway, you should get bull nose tile to create a smooth transition. If the floor meets a carpeted edge where the levels are pretty much the same, then a regular square edged tile will probably be fine.
Ceramic Floor Tiling 4 - Layout
Establishing the Layout Lines:
It is critical that you establish accurate working lines. You are creating a kind of a map to follow to assure an attractive, quality job. All working lines should be bold and easy to see. What you are seeking is a layout that enables you to lay your tile so that there will be full size tiles in high visibility areas, and all edge (border) tiles are at least 1/2 tile or more.
First, make a dry-run for the layout by running dry tiles out from the two most visible walls to see which would work best with your room.
If the tiles at the end of each row (border tiles) are less than half a tile width, adjust the row by moving it the width of half a tile. This will assure you that all the cut tiles will be more than half a tile width.
Also, check to see that the corner that you are working off is square. If it isn't, tack battens to the floor that are squared accurately a tile width from the corner. Use a framing square and chalk line for this process. The line closest to the wall is established by snapping a line one tile length away from the wall along both walls that you're working off of. Then snap another line parallel to it that is the thickness of two grout lines. (This way you are allowing for the grout line along the wall and for the next row of tiles.)
Then nail battens made from 1x2's or 1x3's along that working line so you have a firm position to start running our tiles. Make sure your battens form a right angle and are straight.
Later, once the tiles are laid in the field, remove the battens and tile along the edges, cutting the tiles if necessary. REMEMBER, when you are cutting tiles always leave room for the grout line.
Ceramic Floor Tiling 5 - Installation
First, double check your supplies. Once you roll up your sleeves and are ready to go to work you want to make sure that you have everything that you are going to need.
Do the colors of the tile match? Some discrepancy can be attractive, but that's a personal design choice. Sometimes it's a good idea to pull tiles out of different boxes as you work so any slight discrepancy is integrated into the overall look of the job. Do you have enough quarter round tile for the edges?
Is the grout the right color?
Spreading the adhesive
If you are installing tile in an area that is going to be exposed to water conditions, use a mastic that is water-proof so that it will hold up well. This is very important. If you are applying floor tile in areas not exposed to water, you can use a mastic that is not water-proof.
Epoxy adhesives are also available, but their drying times can be difficult to control. They are more appropriate in areas where high impact strength and chemical resistance are required, like for a darkroom, perhaps.
• Before you apply the adhesive, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for drying time so you don't spread any more than you can work with before it sets up. Usually you want to spread enough mortar for 30-40 minutes work.
• Spread the adhesive on the floor or countertop using the flat side of the applicator. Once you've applied adhesive on a wide area, flip the trowel around to the notched side, run it at a 45 degree angle to create wide grooves.
Note: Use a notched trowel that is notched deeply enough so that the peak of the adhesive should be as thick or nearly as thick as the thickness of the tile. The valley will only show a thin film.
• When applying the adhesive, be careful not to completely obscure your working lines.
• Only spread as much adhesive as you can work with before it sets up.
Setting the tile
• Gently twist the tile into place. Never slide it.
• Use spacers between the tiles to maintain consistent lines if your floor tiles do not have spacing lugs built into the tiles like many standard bath tiles do. There are some types of spacers available that will allow you to leave them permanently and simply grout over them.
• Lay the tiles row by row, cutting the tiles as needed when you get to the end of a row. It's a good idea to snap a chalk line for every row as you go so that you are always working off a straight line. Snap the chalk line about an inch away from the edge of the tile so that the adhesive doesn't obscure your line.
• As you work, take a piece of padded wood that has been covered with an old towel or something protective and beat the tiles to be sure you are adequately seating the tiles in the adhesive. The piece of wood should span at least two or more tiles.
• Continue setting the tiles and spacers until you reach the other end of the room.
Ceramic Floor Tiling 6 - Cutting and Trimming
Cutting Tile - Straight Cuts
1. As you tile into the corners you'll need to be cutting tile as you go.
2. Measure accurately with a tape measure.
3. Most tile dealers can lend you a simple tile cutter. You can also rent a wet saw from your local equipment rental center.
4. When cutting with a non-power tile cutter, score the tile only once. Multiple scores will only dull the blade and create jagged edges on the tile. Place the breaking wings, located at the bottom of the handle, about 1/2" from either edge of the tile and slowly but firmly press down on the handle until the wings break the tile. If needed, smooth any rough edges with a tile sander.
Cutting Shapes
1.Whenever you are cutting any tiles, be sure to allow for the 1/8" grout line when getting your measurements.
Note: Cut tiles to fit around pipes and faucets after all the field tiles are laid.
2.Here are a few different ways to make more complicated cuts:
A) With tile nippers, cut tiles to irregular shapes. Scoring cutoff line with a micro cutter helps. You might need to cut a tile in two so that a tile
wraps around the plumbing.
B) With a wet tile saw (rented from your local equipment rental center) you can cut the tile with a series of cuts and then go over it with the blade to smooth it out.
If you are making a lot of complicated cuts, it may be worth it to rent a diamond cut-off wheel like this at an equipment rental center or your tile dealer.
3. You can also use a saber saw with a carbide blade or, for small holes for plumbing pipes, you can use a tile cutting attachment for your drill.
Installing the Trim Tiles:
All the baseboard of the floor or backsplash for the countertop need to be finished off with trim tile. To do this, simply butter the adhesive on the back of the tile and stick onto the wall in the correct position.
Note: Make sure to clean out any debris that might have fallen into the joints before the adhesive dries and wipe off any excess adhesive. We don't want anything to interfere with the grouting. Now, we'll let the tiles sit like this for 24 hours.
Ceramic Floor Tiling 7 - Grouting
To prevent some cement based grouts from drying prematurely, wash white-bodied and soft red-bodied tiles before grouting. These types of tiles tend to be a lot more porous and can draw liquid from the grout and make it weak.
For standard 4 1/8" tiles where the joints are very narrow, we're using a non-sanded grout. For any other grout joints with other types of tiles, we would use a sanded grout, which holds up better when the grout lines are wider.
The easiest way to apply grout is with a rubber-faced float or a squeegee, although you can do it with your finger and a large sponge. An old toothbrush is handy too to help work the grout into the joints.
Note: Mix the grout with a mixture of 50/50 water and grout fortifier. This will ensure a waterproof grout job. The following are the steps in applying grout:
1. Apply grout to the surface of the tile, spreading it with the float or squeegee and forcing it into the joints. It is critical that the joints be completely filled so that there are no bubbles or gaps.
2. Scrape the excess grout off by wiping diagonally across the tiles with your float or squeegee.
3. With a cleaned out sponge, wash out with clear water and wipe away any remaining grout.Continue to rinse and wring out the sponge until the joints are smooth and level with the tiles.
4. Let the tiles dry out. After about 30 minutes, a hazy grout film will appear. Wipe that away with a soft cloth. You can use the end of a toothbrush handle to tool the joints and clean the intersections clean away and your done.
Here are other Ceramic tile floors that you can also install in your home after you have read this ebook.
Kitchen Floors
Living Room,Bedroom Floors
Outdoor Side Walk Floors etc..
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U.M.S
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